STEAMING samovars, time-worn typewriters — no drinks vending machines or computer hi-tech here.

But this isn't Britain. It's Azerbaijan — and this is Government House in the capital, Baku, on the shores of the Caspian Sea.

The offices were ones West Devon Councillor Dick Eberlie got to know well during his two 'missions' to the former Soviet Union state.

Azerbaijan gained independence in 1991. But while that was a much cherished freedom the country is now fighting to survive in the world market place.

'They are struggling to do the most basic and elementary organisation. But they are tough people who have had to put up with enormous problems and uncomfortable lives — and they will have to do that for much longer.'

Dick was invited out to offer advice as a volunteer with the British Executive Service Overseas.

The Association of Entrepreneurs of Azerbaijan — comprising small and medium private enterprises — requested assistance to help foster the development of the private sector. It felt United Kingdom experience in the field could provide an invaluable contribution.

With 30 years in the CBI — Dick spent eight years in Brussels prior to retiring in 1997 — he had a wealth of business know-how to pass on. Among the main issues to be addressed were proper management, planning for the future and getting the right organsisation on the ground.

An absense of investment, and many old communist sympathisers dragging their feet in the new direction, means the future for Azerbaijan is far from rosy.

Dick's role was to offer support and advice to the president of the country`s embryonic trade association — and help him persuade members of the government and parliament that it was a useful activity.

'It was nice to give them confidence and provide some useful practical advice. But they have no money. And they have no concept about selling goods because the government used to do it.'

Dick created a business plan and outlined objectives to aim for. But he recognised it was an uphill battle.

'The government is still run by those who worked in the communist system. Many still hanker after it because it provided job security.'

Dick said the move to privatisation has been urged on the country by the IMF and all the European and International aid organistions. They will only provide funds if Azerbaijan develops a market economy.

'It's the country's raw materials that are interesting to the western world. They have oil and natural gas to sell — and there is also a massive opportunity for the west to sell to them. So it is a trade where everybody wins.'

But Dick said the trade association wouldn't get the staff he had recommended or the building they need without a 'significant' cash injection of aid.

The time-warp Government House with its outmoded decor and lack of modern equipment did little to impress its guest.

'It was full of lifts that didn't work and lots of elderly ladies dusting and polishing floors,' recalled Dick.

'There were no signs telling you where you were — or how to get from A to B.'

Mechanical clankings of typewriters echoed along endless labrynths of cheaply-panelled wooden corridors. No subdued hum of computers or tap of keyboards here.

When Dick met the Deputy Minister for Economy he was seated in his hazy office chain-smoking and surrounded by dusty piles of books.

'Everyone drinks tea endlessly from long glasses. He had a samovar that was stewing away all the time,' said Dick.

By comparison with Brussels technology — offices bristling with computers, faxes and techno-gadgetry — he is concerned that the lack of such facilities in Azerbaijan will hamper its progress on the world stage.

'There will have to be a huge injection to the infrastructure or it will go much further backwards.'

Dick said everyone was hoping for the UN programme which will provide money and enough dollars to finance the Confederation of Azerbaijan Businesses — geared to represent not only industry and agriculture but retail and commercial organisations.

'When the country gained its independence the small companies were just passed back to the people that ran them.

'Small shopkeepers and small businesses and building companies suddenly found themselves the owners rather than being paid by the state.'

Dick said if the association got off the ground it would help to strengthen the small firm sector — and provide a good basis to privatise the bigger firms.

His visit was backed by the Foreign Office which believes any good that can be achieved will encourage Azerbaijan to be a friend to Britain.

That the west is so keen to help has much to do with perceived long term trade benefits.

'Under the Caspian Sea there is said to be two North Seas' worth of gas — although it is very, very deep. One day when they have the technology and pipelines to the west, Azerbaijan could be a very rich country. But at the moment it is a very poor country.'

Ironically, by 1910 Baku was providing more than half the world's oil — although old pictures Dick saw merely drew attention to the appalling working conditions.

While the divide between disadvantaged east and pampered west was all too apparent during Dick's time in Azerbaijan he found the people very resilient and affable.

'Everyone was hard working, very friendly and delightful company.

'They enjoy their vodka and produce the most wonderful caviar. Although some of food is pretty awful the caviar and vodka is delicious — so there were ample compensations.'